Lithophanes are probably the coolest things you can 3D print. Everyone will be amazed by how you can turn melted plastic and turn it into a beautiful photo.
It may look like it takes an expert in CAD to create these but even beginners are able to do this. I’ll walk you through step by step from choosing a photo to having a finished print. Let’s get started.
When picking a picture to use, don’t worry about the resolution or size of the file. You’ll be surprised at how much detail you are able to print, so the higher the resolution the better. Also, the file size doesn’t make difference in how big your print will be.
The shape does make a difference in how your lithophane panel will turn out. You’re only able to adjust the max size of the model, so if you want your panel to be a perfect square then you’ll have to crop it before you upload the photo.
Let’s use this photo as an example. If your max size is set to 100mm, then your the height of your panel will be your max and your width will be the ratio of the original photo. If you choose to crop it into a square like this picture to the right, then your panel will end up 100mm x 100mm.
Now that you have a photo ready, head over to 3dp.rocks. This is where you will turn the JPEG into an STL. At the top, there will be three pages you will be using, Images, Model, and Settings. First, we will be taking care of the settings.
In the Settings drop-down menu, go to the Image settings first. All you have to do is make sure your setting matches the settings I have here on the left.
After that is taken care of then head over to the Model settings. Here is where you will be able to adjust the size of your lithophane panel. The maximum size is what I explained earlier. You can make this any size you want.
Thickness, Thinnest Layer and Vectors Per Pixel are best if left the way they are.
I like adding a border to my panels because it adds a little frame to the picture and adds a little rigidity while printing. Keep in mind, when adding a border, it doesn’t add to your maximum size. So now with a 3mm border, your 100mm photo becomes 97mm with a 3mm border.
The Base/Stand Depth setting will add a lip to the bottom fo the panel. This number can either be a positive or negative number. A positive number will add a lip in front of the model, and a negative number will add a lip behind the panel. It’s up to you the location of the base, but its important to add one because it will have better adhesion to the build plate while printing.
After you finish adjusting your settings to your liking, it’s time to move on to the Images page. This is where you upload your image file to the software.
Once it uploads, go to the Models page. This is where you can preview the 3D model of your lithophane panel. Below are the different shapes your photo can be made on.
Flat and Outer Curve is the most common ones used. Since you are new to this, stick to the of these before trying out the other ones.
Now it’s time to download and import the STL to your preferred slicer. I’ll be using CURA to explain the settings and orientation needed to have your panel print perfectly. If you added a base to your settings your model will already standing up. Do not print these laying flat on the build plate.
If the bed of your printer moves on the Y axis, like the Creality Ender 3 and the Voxelab Aquila, then it’s best to orientate your model facing either left or right. This will help prevent the model from possibly flopping back and forth while printing.
If the bed of your printer moves on the Z-axis, like the QIDI X-CF Pro and the Creality Ender 5 Plus, then the orientation doesn’t matter. It’s ok to just leave it the way it is.
I wont be going over any of the settings like flow rate and retraction. If you haven’t already adjusted these settings, check out my Calibration article HERE (insert article). These need to good because if any of these are off, it could really ruin your print.
I’m assuming you are using a .4mm nozzle cause that’s the most common size. Your lithophane panel will still look good using this size but if you want more detail in your photo, you should use a .2mm or smaller.
Your layer height is one of the most important settings you need to set in your slicer. This should be .1mm to .16mm layer height. I’ve used .18mm to lower the printing time but only on lithophanes with fewer details in the photo.
Your wall line count should be at least 2 layers. Lithophanes need to be printed as one solid print, or in other words, 100% infill. Another way to accomplish this is to increase your wall line count to a really high number like 50. This will make each layer only walls instead of infill. This will have the same result, just a different way of doing it.
Z Seam Alignment should be set to the sharpest corner. This will keep that little blob thats formed on the beginning of the extrusion off the face of you panel. You could also use the User Specified setting and put the z seam on the sides or the rear.
Printing speed makes a big difference in how your lithophane comes out. Especially when it comes to your bed moving on the Y-axis as I explained before. Try and keep your speed lower than 50mm/s and your outer wall speed around 25-30mm/s.
Enabling Z hop is a must. You really don’t want your nozzle bumping your print and knocking your model loose from the bed. It’s really frustrating to see your model laying flat on the bed 3/4 of the way through a print.
Be sure to turn off your supports. You really don’t want to be cleaning little pieces of plastic off the face of the panel. Make sure your part cooling fan is set to 100% or you’ll have some droopy spots.
Always use a brim with at least an 8mm width to increase bed adhesion. You can also use glue stick for extra reasurance.
Lastly lithophanes are mostly printed with white PLA cause this allows the most light to shine through. I’ve seen other colors used but they will never look as good as white. My favorite filament I use is eSUN cool white PLA Pro. Other white PLA filaments gives off a really off white look. I don’t really like that “old western” photography look.
Now you ready to print one of the coolest thing your 3D printer will produce.